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WHERE TO STAY: Walking distance from the Buckhorn Saloon and surrounded by the pines, Bear Creek Cabins in Pinos Altos offers 15 two-story cabins with fireplaces. Gila Cliff Dwellings

National Monument Wilsilver77/Getty Images DAY 3: THE TRAIL OF THE MOUNTAIN SPIRITS SCENIC BYWAY (93 MILES) The Trail of the Mountain Spirits Scenic Byway begins climbing as you drive from

Pinos Altos north into the Gila National Forest. Boasting 3.3 million acres of forested hills and majestic mountains, the Gila encompasses the 559,688 acres of the Gila Wilderness, the

country's first such designated area. The narrow road winds through the forest offering jaw-dropping views of vertical cliffs and deep canyon walls. Traversing back and forth across the

Continental Divide, the byway crosses six climatic zones. Keep an eye out for resident mammals, including beaver, black bear, bobcat, elk, mountain lion and Sonoran white-tailed deer. The

road follows a steep descent at Sapillo Creek (18 miles past Pinos Altos), where it intersects with N. Mex 35 then returns to a climb heading north for 17 miles along a series of steep

switchbacks terminating at the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. A stop at the Senator Clinton P. Anderson Scenic Overlook along the way yields glorious views of the Gila Wilderness

and the Gila River Canyon lying 2,000 feet below. As one of the few places visitors are permitted to wander through an archeological site, the monument provides an insightful glimpse into

the lives of the people of the Mogollon culture. An easy 1.1-mile hiking trail leads to a series of passageways connecting five intriguing caves consisting of 42 rooms believed to have

housed 40 to 50 Pueblo Indians between the 1280s and early 1300s. Nearby, family-owned and operated Doc Campbell's Post stocks more than groceries, snacks, nonalcoholic drinks and ice

cream. You just might leave with some of the beautiful and unique handmade jewelry crafted by Native American artisans. After your unexpected shopping spree, backtrack the 17 miles to

Sapillo Creek; then you'll take a new road -— southeast on N. Mex 35. Four miles along, you'll pass Lake Roberts, a lovely manmade lake stocked with trout to the delight of avid

fishermen. The byway crosses the Continental Divide a second time before reaching the fertile Mimbres River Valley. Continuing west on N. Mex. 152 at the town of San Lorenzo leads to an

overlook into the enormous hole created by the still-active Santa Rita Copper Mine, which dates back to the early 1900s. WHERE TO STAY: At Georgetown Cabins Resort near Mimbres (a tiny town

just 5 miles west of San Lorenzo), six solar-powered cabins provide all the amenities of home, including full kitchens and outdoor grills. End your evening on your private patio gazing at

the stars blanketing the dark sky above.