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UNION SQUARE CAFE 21 East 16th Street 212-243-4020 JUDSON GRILL 152 West 52nd Street 212-582-5252 Though it never advertises the fact, Union Square Cafe always has at least half a dozen

items scattered around its menu that no tableclothless, yoga-cultured veganeria can match. Spinach-and-portobello-mushroom salad with fennel and shaved Parmesan, Indian-spiced vegetables

with mushroom-basmati pilaf, and sheep’s-milk ricotta gnocchi in lemon-spinach cream are three of the items currently listed. However, JUdson Grill’s spring-vegetable plate boasts a

scrumptious stuffed sweet onion, white-bean spring-green strudel, and a pancake of peas and stewed garden goodies so warmly appealing that even those who come to JUdson’s bar just for the

burgers could get off on this dish. Lovers of the harvest will be hooked faster than you can steam asparagus. Carnivores should first try the plate instead of onion rings. Then go for the

rings and forget the burger. You can do it. Yes, you can. Click herefor Best of New York 2000 Index!