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7624 Wydown Boulevard, Clayton; wrightswydown.com When you put together two of the most talented veterans to grace the St. Louis restaurant scene, it's bound to be magic, and

that's the only word to describe the flawless Wright's Tavern. Together, restaurateur Matt McGuire, of the famed King Louie's and current hotspot Louie, and chef Cary

McDowell, of New York's Daniel and St. Louis' the Crossing and Pi Pizzeria, have created nothing short of a masterpiece in Wright's. A neighborhood steakhouse in its form,

Wright's is in substance a celebration of beloved classic dishes that shows why they came to capture our hearts. A Caesar salad, for instance, reminds you of why you fell in love with

Caesar salads in the first place, with zesty, anchovy-laden dressing, crisp romaine and a blizzard of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Onion rings are a case study in texture, and fries are

positively extraordinary, the result of a highly involved process that yields thick strips with a golden brown exterior and an interior as soft as mashed potatoes. The crab cake is as good

as those offered on the Chesapeake Bay, a roast-beef sandwich is so delicious it brings a tear to the eye, and steaks are so perfectly grilled they should be the standard upon which all

cooks rely on to hit the right temperatures. But it's not only the culinary standards that make Wright's such an essential part of the St. Louis dining scene. McGuire is unrivaled

in his ability to make every guest feel like a VIP, and he instills that level of commitment in his servers. The result is a masterful experience, from the moment you walk through the door

until the moment you step out of it, filled with incredible food, the joy of having been pampered and the bliss that comes from having experienced dining that's as good as it gets.

_—CHERYL BAEHR_