Reader TTS

BAKE THE CAKES: For 25 to 35 minutes, or until a wire cake tester inserted into the centers comes out clean and the cakes spring back when pressed lightly in the centers. The cakes should

start to shrink from the sides of the pans only after removal from the oven. COOL AND UNMOLD THE CAKES: Let the cakes cool in the pans on wire racks for 10 minutes. Run a small metal spatula

between the sides of the pans and the cakes, pressing firmly against the pans, and invert the cakes onto wire racks that have been lightly coated with nonstick cooking spray. Peel off the

parchment and, to prevent splitting, reinvert the cakes so that the tops are facing up. Cool completely. STORE AIRTIGHT: room temperature, 3 days; refrigerated, 1 week; frozen, 3 months.

POINTER FOR SUCCESS: It is important to cover the cocoa mixture to prevent evaporation, which would cause the cake to be dry. UNDERSTANDING: Compared to the original version of this cake,

which was baked in three 1½ inch high pans, the batter for this cake is two-thirds the recipe except for the cocoa, which is three-quarters. There is also added unsweetened chocolate, a

little sour cream, and brown sugar in place of granulated. All this makes the cake more chocolaty, moister, and less sweet. Compared to the Chocolate Fudge Cake, this cake has a much higher

percentage of fat (including the cocoa butter and sour cream), a little less water, and more cocoa solids. This makes it denser and moister. COMPLEMENTARY ADORNMENTS: Midnight Ganache or

other ganache. Recipe follows. MIDNIGHT GANACHE I created this ganache for Devil’s Food Cake and for the chocolate lover who always longs for deeper and darker flavor and the ultimate in

voluptuous texture. The secrets are caramelizing the sugar to a deep brown and adding cocoa, bringing the cacao solids to a little more than double that of Caramel Ganache. Also, adding

boiling water to the cocoa releases its full flavor. Using part water instead of the usual amount of heavy cream keeps the ganache very dark. _—Rose Levy Beranbaum_ INGREDIENTS * 1½ cups

minus 1 tablespoon (sifted before measuring) unsweetened alkalized cocoa powder * I cup boiling water * 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract * 1 tablespoon Cognac or extra water * 7 ounces dark

chocolate (60% to 62% cacao), coarsely chopped * 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar * ¼ cup water * ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream, lukewarm to hot * 2½ tablespoons unsalted butter, at

room temperature DIRECTIONS MAKE THE COCOA MIXTURE: In a 4 cup glass measuring cup with a spout, whisk together the cocoa and boiling water until smooth. Whisk in the vanilla and Cognac.

Cover with plastic wrap and cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. To speed cooling, place it in the refrigerator. Bring it to room temperature before proceeding. GRATE THE CHOCOLATE:

In a food processor, process the chocolate. MAKE THE CARAMEL: Use a medium heavy saucepan, preferably with a nonstick lining and a pouring lip. (Alternatively, if your saucepan does not have

a lip, have ready near the cooktop a 4 cup/1 liter glass measure with a spout, lightly coated with nonstick cooking spray.) In the saucepan, stir together the sugar and water until all the

sugar is moistened. Heat on medium-high, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup is bubbling. Stop stirring completely and allow the syrup to boil undisturbed until it

turns a deep amber. An instant-read thermometer will read 370˚F/188˚C or a few degrees lower because its temperature will continue to rise. Remove it from the heat and, as soon as it reaches

temperature, slowly and carefully pour the cream into the caramel. It will bubble up furiously.